Born and raised in rural Germany, 27-year-old Katharina Gruber studied womenswear design at the international fashion school, Esmod, between Munich and Tokyo, before joining the Parisian couture house of Anne Valérie Hash. From there, Gruber designed for Balenciaga, under the direction of Nicolas Ghesquière, as well as collaborating on various film and dance projects, such as "IRON“ by Woodkid with Yoann Lemoine or Valentino by Johan Renck.
In 2013, Gruber debuted her eponymous line of speciality women‘s clothing, a culmination of research and practice into the intimate links between comfort and elegance.
Giving rise to fluid sophistication, Gruber’s work blends the forms of sculptural shapes with grand, unrestricted movements.
With her second collection, she was presented by Agence74, which has a strong focus on ‚specialty designers’ all over the world. Atelier produced in France, with a focus on Artisanal dyed Twill’s and Cotton’s or on fine japanese tri-acetates, Gruber’s clothes are intended to be lived in and last, while evoking the force and sensitivity of the woman wearing them.
For Spring / Summer 14 collection she was focusing on special
japanese, draped Tri- Acetate fabrics, which is a raw material of
wood pulp ( It releases sweat and dampness and achieves an
elegant and cooling silhouette ), bonded Twill, Satin and Cot-
ton, subtle color’s block’s and 60’s Cristobal Balenciaga’s gown’s
inspired 3D shapes to give a bodily awareness at the moment of
Since the new world began, people feel completely isolated; they think the only place outside heaven where you
be perfectly safe from all the dangers and perturbations of love is Hell.
Once you love anything, your heart will certainly be wrung and possibly be broken.
If you want to make sure of
keeping it intact, you must give your heart to no one, not even to an animal. Wrapping it carefully round with
hobbies and little luxuries; avoid all entanglements; lock it up safely in the casket or coffin of your selfishness.
Inspired by the abstract artist, Niko Luoma, SS14 collection is mainly focused on showing the complicated feeling
between to love oneself or not to love at all. Gun, knife and ghost are three main symbolic elements in developing
the print for this collection. These represent the feeling of being hurt and getting pain.
Different shades of blue have
also been used for developing the color, which represents the sophisticated mood and emotion deep inside of our
A focal interest in the 19th century fine tailoring of the English aristocracy gets combined with the worker clothes
as well as zoo suits with a lot of oversize shape represents the protection you need when you are being in love.
All silhouettes are showcasing the sharpness of the British tailoring; but at the same time, having a lot of layering
reserves the reserved elegances.
Waterproof is the main element on developing the fabric - coated wool, cotton,
and polyurethane finished fabrics are widely used in every single piece of this collection.
Spring/Summer 2014 collection is all about classical tailoring tradition with a new level of protection
elements. Having the typical SixLee characteristics - elegantly tailored silhouettes in rich materials, clothes cannot
just protect your physical self but your mental self – Your SOUL.
“We‘re all accepting the love
we think we deserve…”
“Take all my loves, my love, yea, take them all;
What hast thou then more than thou hadst before?
No love, my love, that thou mayst true love call;
All mine was thine before thou hadst this more.
Then if for my love thou my love receivest,
I cannot blame thee for my love thou usest;
But yet be blamed, if thou thyself deceivest
By wilful taste of what thyself refusest.
I do forgive thy robbery, gentle thief,
Although thou steal thee all my poverty;
And yet, love knows, it is a greater grief
To bear love's wrong than hate's known injury.
Lascivious grace, in whom all ill well shows,
Kill me with spites; yet we must not be foes.--By William Shakespeare.
Dear iDEALS, it was around January 2013 when I visited Florence to work with Linda Loppa and Polimoda's tutors on
a project that focused on three themes: Fetish, Monsters and Bridges. I
did a series of interviews on video as well as in text featuring a
selected number of fashion pioneers and opinion leaders as well as
Polimoda teachers and students using a Q&A format targeted to
trigger reflections on how the creative values of the past are linked to
those of the present.
This series of video-interviews represent the development of the project “Momenting the Memento” in
the prospect of the IFFTI (International Foundation of Fashion
Technology Institutes) conference that will be held in Florence in 2015,
in the premises of Villa Favard. A strand of research addressed during
the first SALON, a closed-door conversation on the theme “Connecting
Cities, Education and Fashion” that brought together opinion leaders
from the worlds of industry, culture and fashion.
In this video I talk with Mr Danilo Venturi, fashion and luxury consultant, author of “Luxury Hackers” and head of department at Polimoda.
Exploiting the same working method for the IFFTI
conference, and to set up a dialogue between different creative
disciplines, withing my Questions&Answers I am trying to grasp how
history, society and art are intermeshed with fashion. All the
interviews will be distilled online in little “nuggets” on
Polimodamag.com in the months to follow.
Dear iDEALS, Parisian Jeu De Paume celebrates the photographic signature, drawings and photomontages of Erwin Blumengfeld.
The exhibition traces his visual creativity and encompasses the early drawings, the collages and montages, which mostly stem from the early 1920s, the beginnings of his portrait art in Holland, the first black and white fashion photographs of the Paris period, the masterful colour photography created in New York and the urban photos taken toward the end of his life.
The retrospective also showcases his drawings, many of which have never been shown before, as well as his early collages and photomontages, shedding fascinating light on the evolution of his photographic oeuvre and revealing the full extent of his creative genius.
The now classic motifs of his experimental black-and-white photographs can be seen alongside his numerous selfportraits and portraits of famous and little-known people, as well as his fashion and advertising work.
In the first years of his career, he worked only in black and white, but as soon as it became technically possible he enthusiastically used color. He transferred his experiences with black-and-white photography to color; applying them to the field of fashion, he developed a particularly original repertoire of forms.
The female body became Erwin Blumenfeld’s principal subject. In his initial portrait work, then the nudes he produced while living in Paris and, later on, his fashion photography, he sought to bring out the unknown, hidden nature of his subjects; the object of his quest was not realism, but the mystery of reality.
Erwin Blumenfeld’s life and work impressively document the
socio-political context of artistic
development between the two World Wars, while highlighting the
individual consequences of emigration. The exhibition devoted to Erwin
Blumenfeld’s multi-layered œuvre brings together over 300 works and
documents from the late 1910s to the 1960s, and encompasses the various
media explored by the artist throughout his career: drawings,
photographs, montages and collages.
Ute Eskildsen, former deputy director and head of the photographical collections for the Museum
Exposition produced by the Jeu de Paume, Paris.
In partnership with A Nous, de l’air, LCI and Stylia, Vogue Paris, Time Out, France Inter and Fip.
We would like to thank the Hôtel Castille, Paris.
Dear iDEALS, through their second collection, ss confirms this insatiable desire to rediscover the history, to revisit some of its most mysterious sides. “Looking for a lost time with unstitched memories” as could be the leitmotiv of this new collection. Indeed, KRJST has, this time; leaded its researches in the soviet empire history and in its old satellite countries. Faithful to their philosophy of designer’s confrontation, Justine and Erika got their inspiration from the meeting of memories, which has let behind them this huge jigsaw.
With their prints, which became their distinctive sign thanks to their collaboration with Mister Pimpant, KRJST rebuild the fragments of a complex history. Through this second collection, KRJST raises itself as passer of shapeless and multiform memories and confirms its ambition to gather together around diversity.
...with the participation of
Justine de Moriamé fashion designer
Erika Schillebeeckx fashion designer
Sébastien Delahaye photographer
Monsieur Pimpant draughtsman
Virginie de Moriamé writer
Richard Labro designer
Ségolène Jacmin business analyst
Céline Chagnot shoe designer
Pam Mertens manager
Pierre Gorzala stylist
Laura & Elias models
God damned, it’s KRJST !
Backstage photography from the KRJST SS14 by Sebastien Delhaye
Every dress begins with a drawing, every skirt with a sketch.
Illustration is integral to fashion design not only as a means of
expression, and the starting point of every design, but also for
patterns and prints as well as magazine editorial illustrations. Often,
artists will even illustrate the newest looks directly from the
It’s high time Taschen celebrated fashion illustration in their Illustration Now!
series: here you’ll find new work from 90 artists around the globe,
including Ruben Toledo, Aurore de La Morinerie, Bil Donovan, Tanya Ling,
and Jean-Philippe Delhomme.
The book features quotes by
experts from the fashion world: Valentino compliments the work of Gladys
Perint Palmer; voices out of the studios of Maison Martin Margiela,
Christian Dior, Louis Vuitton, and H&M add their praise for the
talents in the book.
Following an introduction by illustration expert Steven Heller,
the historical essay by art and fashion historian Adelheid Rasche
provides an in-depth exploration of the subject.
Lovisa Burfitt, Maquillage green. 2008, H&M, wall
decoration, ink, feather pen, brush and color pencil
to the 17th century, she draws a timeline of fashion illustration until
today, accompanied by images such as an early etching by François
Watteau, a drawing by Paul Iribe for the book of the famous Parisian
couturier Paul Poiret, and illustrations by the highly acclaimed masters
of modern fashion illustration René Gruau and Antonio Lopez, as well
as, from more recent years, François Berthoud.
The editor, Julius Wiedemann was born in Brazil, studied graphic design and marketing, and was an art editor for digital and design magazines in Tokyo. His many TASCHEN digital and media titles include Illustration Now!, Advertising Now, Logo Design, and Brand Identity Now!
Based on an original idea by Vassilis Zidianakis, ARRRGH! Monsters in Fashion is the first international exhibition on character design in fashion and art. Characters are abstract, reduced figures with a strong anthropomorphic appeal and bold graphical silhouette.
ALEX MATTSSON SE | ALEXIS THEMISTOCLEOUS CY | ANDREA AYALA CLOSA ES | BART
HESS NL | BAS KOSTERS NL | BERNHARD WILLHELM DE | BORIS HOPPEK DE | BRONWEN
MARSHALL UK | CASSETTE PLAYA & GARY CARD UK | CHARLIE LE MINDU FR | CHI HE
CN | CLO'E FLOIRAT FR | CRAIG GREEN UK | DAVID CURTIS-RING UK | DIGITARIA GR
| FILEP MOTWARY & MARIA MASTORI CY & GR | GEORGE TOURLAS GR | HELEN PRICE UK
| HENRIK VIBSKOV DK | HEYNIEK NL | HIDEKI SEO JP | ISSEY MIYAKE & DAI
FUJIWARA JP | JEAN-PAUL LESPAGNARD BE | KIM TRAEGER DK | LEUTTON POSTLE UK |
LUIS LOPEZ SMITH UK | MADS DINESEN DK | MAISON MARTIN MARGIELA FR | MANON
KÜNDIG CH | MAREUNROL’S LV | NASIR MAZHAR UK | PICTOPLASMA DE |
PIERRE-ANTOINE VETTORELLO FR | PIERS ATKINSON UK | REJINA PYO KR | RICK
OWENS US | STEFAN GALT
(AND IN PASSING)
IR | TOMA STENKO RU | VIKTOR & ROLF
NL | WALTER VAN BEIRENDONCK BE
Dear iDEALS, Lisbon's MUSEU DO DESIGN E DA MODA opened its doors on October 17th for an amazing exhibition, dedicated to the works of Portugese designer, Felipe Oliveira Baptista.
The exhibitiona is based on five themes from resisiting Felipe's classics, his love for technology and nature as well as geometry..
The scenography is designed by Bureau Betak and the visitors will also have the chance to see from up close the designer's approach on men's jackets, his craft and tailoring along with his
reinterpretations of little black dresse.
Dear Filep and iDEALS,
on Saturday, October 19th , at the stunning location of "Salone Degli Affreschi" of Bari University, exclusively opened its doors to an exhibition featuring pieces from the archives of Madame Mimma Ninni.
The exhibition, in collaboration with Balenciaga, featured iconical and "Edition" pieces from the 1950's to now, including looks that Mimma Ninni has collected during this twenty-five years and has kept as archive such as Nicolas Ghesquière, Alaïa, Christopher Kane or Comme des Garçon, Thomas Wilde among to name a few.
Celebrating the 25th aniversary of the historic italian boutique, that took its name from the owner herself, Mimma Ninni, opened its doors back in 1988 with the Mila Schon flagship store.
A real pioneer of fashion retail, she was the first to sell Comme Des Garçons in Italy. Special thanx to Federica Riso.
Pictures by Stefano Coletti