BLACK’D is a fashion label based in NYC. After seven years of having his own name
as a label, fashion designer Dejan Despotovic starts his new line called BLACK’D.
Dejan’s vision to make a label which will be based on a dress shirt made quite a
noise because after two years of working as a creative consultant and head designer
for other labels in NYC he returns his label on it’s feet.
In past seven years Dejan Despotovic has built a big international following with
his label “BLACK by DEJAN DESPOTOVIC” , and now he is ready to present his new
line BLACK’D which will from now on be recognizable name for Dejan Despotovic’s
FM: So Dejan, what is your new collection about
DD: My new collection is about the dress shirt. Shirt is one of my favorite pieces of clothes and It always inspired me through the years of my work.
This is actually the completely new line with the new name "BLACK'D" and it is based on shirt and everything will be based on shirt.
FM: What is a man and what is a woman for you?
DD: Oh I came to that point where I wanted to make clothes that will be inspiring to wear. Each of my presentations of the clothes actually resembles how I see the man and woman who would wear my clothes. When you separate the pieces from the collection you actually realize that each can also be worn by guys who are not so into fashion, and this has always been my goal, to present something that is my dream, my inspiration and to present it the way I like it and the way I imagined it but to be worn by many people....not only a curtain group of people.
Man is a man, woman is a woman, man is a woman, woman is a man...
I like dreaming and being constantly inspired. I really like the thought that in fashion you can make your dreams come true. You can dress a man to be a beautiful, handsome man, women to be a goddess or men to be a women and woman to be a beautiful man.
FM: How can two sexes become one through a collection, the vision of the designer...?
DD: Everything is about the way a designer is inspired. Inspiration and the presentation can do wonders. Vision is one thing and wearability of the clothes is another. If you can mix those two elements, the DREAM and the REALITY, then you are on a good way to become recognized and respected.
FM: You have moved to New York since two years now. What made you take this decision?
DD: When you live and work in Serbia where the fashion market is very small and you have to present your work to an audience hit by a very bad economy situation, you can't really expect much to happen.
Sometimes your dream can be broken by how other people think. I started when I was 19 years old. When you have that strength and wish to make it happen, you just dig and dig. I reached a lot in Serbia, opened my own store, became someone......But then suddenly it comes to your mind that you can't do anything else, and that it's the end of the road.
For as long as I can remember, I have always wanted real fashion, real fabrics, real possibility to do what I like. That's why I moved from Belgrade to NYC. And I am happy now to start all over again.
FM: What were the difficulties you came across?
DD: Oh....When you are new in some city, you just want to get to know the right people, and you just have to work hard to start everything again. It is always difficult to start from zero again. You have to think about paying the rent, buying the food, buying the fabrics, and also finding time to do your thing. Now after two years I started. Finally. I am very grateful that people still remember my work (laughs), and are still interested to feature me again after a long time of not presenting collections. I have a feeling that now it's the time to come back!
FM: Your collection has been relaunched. What is the BLACK'D collection about?
DD: BLACK'D is a new line that has just been launched. It is based on a dress shirt, the piece that I am the most inspired by. Everything will be black, made of cotton or a combination of two or more fabrics. Or white with black details so the name talks for itself....it will be blacked.
I want to research the shirt as much as I can because, for me the shirt as a philosophy, is something that everybody has and would be exited to see what can be done with it as the starting point of a new inspiration.
For the first time ever, the 6th edition of ASVOFF will visit Antwerp on October 15th and 16th, 2013, after its launch at Centre Pompidou from October 11th until 13th.
Founded in 2008 by the internationally acclaimed fashion critic and video journalist Diane Pernet, A Shaded View on Fashion Film (ASVOFF) is the world's first annual festival dedicated to fashion films. A
SVOFF is not only a competition of short films about fashion, style, beauty but also a traveling international event showcasing feature films, documentaries, conferences, performances and installations.
ASVOFF6 ANTWERP is organized in collaboration with MoMu, Fashion Museum province of Antwerp and Antwerp. Powered by Creatives and will take place at AMUZ, situated in and around the 17th century baroque St. Augustine Church, located in the centre of Antwerp. The building combines an impressive historical setting with all the technical features of a modern concert hall.
Les Stars by Serge Lutens, 1973, Copyright: Serge Lutens
The programme includes a selection of short movies selected from the ASVOFF6 edition around the theme of DREAM. Highlights in the selection include ao 'Les Stars' directed by the prolific image-maker Serge Lutens, fashion and film icon Daphne Guinness starring in 'Shakki' directed by emerging French director Julien Landais, 'Sister Act' directed by Ellen von Unwerth, etc.
Together with the ASVOFF-festival, MoMu will present MOMU3, a series of 3 fashion films in collaboration with Bulo, created by Antwerp photographer and artist Frederik Heyman in which he infuses a selection of historical and contemporary silhouettes from the rich collection of the MoMu with digital life by using 3D scans and manipulations.
AMUZ, Kammenstraat 81, 2000 Antwerp
Tuesday, 15/10, from 7PM until 11PM (invitation only)
Wednesday, 16/10 from 7PM until 11PM (free entrance)
(free festival, but registration is required
More info www.momu.be and www.asvoff.com
“FACELESS part I” showed the appeal that hiding, veiling, or masking the face exerted on art and fashion after 9/11. The second part of the exhibition, opening on September 27 at 19:00 in freiraum quartier21 INTERNATIONAL at the MuseumsQuartier Wien, continues the survey in a more participatory approach. The focus is on interdisciplinary works and lectures, performances, and workshops that convey how we can survive without losing face and at the same time revolt.
“As much as a face and an expression can give away about us, we have plenty of creative potentials at our disposal for making these tale-telling surfaces illegible, even invisible, without running the risk of suffering social death,” says Brigitte Felderer, co-curator with artist Bogomir Doringer of the group exhibition “FACELESS part II.”
“The first part of the exhibition attracted 12,000 visitors. Its success demonstrates how relevant the theme is and how much people are interested in it. ‘FACELESS part II’ resumes the critical exploration of problems of our media culture,” says MuseumsQuartier Director Dr. Christian Strasser.
The works by 45 artists are divided into themes like digital masks, mirrors, icons, and invisible people. As for part one of the show, the exhibition design was created by students from the Department for Stage and Costume Design, Film, and Exhibition Architecture at Mozarteum University in Salzburg. “FACELESS part II” will additionally feature photos on the theme of facelessness contributed by more than 50 artists to the website www.facelessexhibition.com (totally about 2.000 posts). All names of artists will be announced online.
Foto: Adam Harvey, Anti-Drone Burqa 2013 (c) Adam Harvey/ahprojects.com in collaboration with Johanna Bloomfield.
The poignant, poetic sound of William Basinski’s video work “Disintegration Loop 1.1.,” audible throughout the exhibition space, immerses visitors in a melancholic atmosphere. The film by the American composer was shot on the evening of September 11, 2001, and in a single, more than 60-minute take shows the disintegrating Twin Towers enshrouded in wafts of smoke.
Jill Magid’s installation “Article 12/The Spy Project” was produced for the Dutch Secret Service. In this assignment, she portrayed the spies to give the organization a “human face.” Although she always protected their identity, some parts of her work were later censured and confiscated. The central element of her text-based installation is “I Can Burn Your Face,” a neon piece shining so brightly that it is virtually impossible to decipher the confidential information with the naked eye.
Andrew Norman Wilson uncovers the fact that the world’s largest search engine also employs fourth class workers. The film “Workers Leaving the Googleplex” is about so-called ScanOps, low-paid temps who unbeknown to the public scan books for Google’s digital library. The “ScanOps” photos also show how some of the book pages are misscanned and include unwanted elements. British artist Lucy Wood’s installation “Distant Neighbors/Vecinos Distantes Exactitudes” is themed around the invisible migrants who illegally cross the border between the USA and Mexico. Ari Versluis and Ellie Uyttenbroek’s multi-year photography project on identity and uniformity shows how individuals from various social groups resemble each other in terms of attitude and dress code.
Foto: KATSU, Status Update (c) KATSU
American artist Adam Harvey creates wearable privacy in collaboration with fashion designer Johanna Bloomfield. Their “Stealth Wear” features intelligent camouflage clothing and accessories that protect the wearer from surveillance. As its second station after the New Museum in New York, the Privacy Gift Shop is making an exclusive appearance at the exhibition. Items on sale include the anti-drone collection made of metalized textiles that cannot be detected by infrared cameras. Zach Blas, founder of the artist collective Queer Technologies, develops forms of protest involving the distortion of biometric data. His project “Facial Weaponization Suite” reveals how we can evade face recognition, deliver false data, or wear the “face of many.” “As the face becomes a site of ever increasing control and governance, new ethical relations to the face are emerging that embrace defacement and escape, not necessarily mutual recognition but collective transformation that is both anarchic and commonizing. Today, the mask is the most popular implementation of defacement, a celebration of refusal and transformation,” says Zach Blas.
Like Addie Wagenknecht and KATSU, German conceptual artist Aram Bartholl is part of the New York artist collective F.A.T. - Free Art and Technology Lab. In “How to Vacuum Form” he shows how you can make your own Guy Fawkes mask, the accessory of protest. In his videos and performances, Jeremy Bailey skillfully plays a nerd. The Canadian artist is represented in the exhibition and the side program, among other things giving a workshop for teenagers called “Hey You with the Totally Awesome Face” to teach them how to trick webcams and look more popular. Dutch artist Arthur Elsenaar makes the face dance. His research project “Artifacial” makes it possible to digitally control movements of the face muscles with electrical impulses.
In the video “The Punishment” by Ondrej Brody and Kristofer Paetau, children exercise the seemingly natural urge to punish evil with relish – in this case a photograph of George Bush. By melting away, the faces in Ben DeHaan’s digital portraits demonstrate the fragility and short life of digital formats. Japanese hatmaker Maiko Takeda creates masks and headdresses that seem to come from a virtual world. Björk has been wearing them at concerts for several months now. German artist Martin Backes adapts the pixel filter of Google Street View that makes faces unrecognizable and reproduces it on the fabric of his Pixelhead masks. On the search for the right/perfect face through plastic surgery, artist and filmmaker Martin C de Waal tests the boundaries of his personality. “Narciss,” Mirko Lazović’s sculpture made of mirrors, makes it impossible to see your own reflection. Bryan Lewis Saunders is an American artist with many faces. For many years, he has been drawing a self-portraits every day. “FACELESS part II” shows his 48-part series “Under the Influence,” created under the influence of a daily changing assortment of drugs and substances.
Foto: Ondrej Brody & Kristofer Paetau, The Punishment 2005 (c) Ondrej Brody & Kristofer Paetau
Martin Backes (GER), Jeremy Bailey (CAN), Jonathan Barnbrook (GBR) for David Bowie, Aram Bartholl (GER), William Basinski (USA), Zach Blas (USA), Heiko Bressnik (AUT), Ondrej Brody (CZE) & Kristofer Paetau (FIN), Mark Brown (NED/GRB), Cracked Labs (AUT), Ben DeHaan (USA), Sofie Groot Dengerink (NED), DENNATON (Jonatan Söderström & Dennis Wedin) (SWE), Arthur Elsenaar (NED), Hrafnhildur Gissurardottir (ISL), Adam Harvey (USA), Jakob Lena Knebl (AUT) & Thomas Hörl (AUT), KATSU (USA), Miodrag Krkobabić (SRB), Matthieu Laurette (FRA), Mirko Lazović (SRB/NED), Theo-Mass Lexileictous (CYP), Vanessa Lodigiani (MEX), Jill Magid (USA), Alberto de Michele (ITA), Jelena Misković (SRB), Bob Miloshević (SRB), Andrew Newman (AUS/GER), Bernd Oppl (AUT), Marco Pezzotta (ITA), RAF SIMONS, Tarron Ruiz-Avila (AUS), Bryan Lewis Saunders (USA), Tim Silver (AUS), Maiko Takeda (JAP), Ari Versluis (NED) & Ellie Uyttenbroek (NED), Daniel Vom Keller (SUI/NED), Martin C de Waal (NED), Anne Wenzel (NED), Lucy Wood (GRB), Andrew Norman Wilson (USA), and Marcus Zobl (USA/AUT).
“FACELESS part II” has been has been organized in cooperation with the Federal Ministry for
European and International Affairs, Artistic Technology Research (University of Applied Arts
Vienna), and Mozarteum University in Salzburg with the support of partners and sponsors from
Austria and abroad. A side program will feature a symposium as well as guided tours,
performances, lectures, and workshops, including during the VIENNAFAIR and VIENNA ART
FACELESS part II
Length: Sep 28 to Nov 24, Tue to Sun, 13:00-19:00, free admission
Press preview: Fri, Sep 27, 10:00
Opening: Fri, Sep 27, 19:00
Location: freiraum quartier21 INTERNATIONAL/MuseumsQuartier Wien
There are only a few days left until the entry deadline oF September
15th for the European Fashion Award FASH 2014 with the topic “Rhythm”. Here are three announcements this close to the final
- The Swiss Textile Federation supports the European Fashion Award FASH 2014 with textile vouchers valued 5,000 Swiss Francs.
-A jury consisting of international design, industry, and media
experts will select the award winners according to set criteria. The
decision of the jury is final and cannot be contested in a court of law.
Members of the Jury FASH 2014 jury include:
Margareta van den Bosch, Creative Adviser, H & M Hennes & Mauritz, Stockholm
Stephan Meyer, Creative Director, Harpers Bazaar, Berlin
Dr. Adelheid Rasche, Director of Sammlung Modebild, Staatliche Museen zu
Berlin (Fashion Image Collection – National Museums in Berlin)
Joachim Schirrmacher, Creative Consultant, Berlin
Michael Sontag, Designer, Berlin
Robb Young, Fashion Journalist and Consultant, London
- The submission deadline for the European Fashion Award FASH 2014 was postponed to October 10, 2013.
Nuno Abelho was born in Lisbon, Portugal. A Fashion Design graduate from CIVEC, in Lisbon he produces his collections at his studio in Elvas, Portugal since 2008.
His work is represented at the collection of the National Costume Museum in Lisbon.
Influences from the traditional portuguese costumes, translated to silk flower patterns, brocades and lace focucing on hand finished pieces and hand embroidered.
Photographer: Paulo Sousa Hair & makeup: Sheila Sanchez Model: Milene @Central Portugal