Dear Filep and iDEALS,I'm sure you've read – somewhere, sometime - about that 'emotional shock' fashion people (Irène Silvagni or Carla Sozzani, just to mention a few) felt, back in 1981.
I think I actually felt the same, on Friday October 11th, at the opening of '80s 90s Facing Beauties'. I’m talking about the exhibition set in Rimini, Italy; 5 rooms of Italian prêt-à-porter and Japanese radical fashion, from the 80’s and 90’s.
Not to mention the soft shape of the Futon Coat (F/W 1995-96) or the plissé touch of the Zig Zag gown (F/W 1994-95), both in room n° 1; where Miyake’s experiments with pleating are confronted with Armani’s deconstructed jacket.
The room after was quite surprising: a catwalk covered with spoiled and ripped shirts and uniforms and gowns; those which were criticised first in the 80’s by international press (do you remember so called ‘Fashion’s Pearl Harbour’ and its bag-lady?) and then loved, with all their heart, by fashion ‘black crows’.
Looking up, you could see Dolce&Gabbana mermaid gowns, elegant Prada and Valentino silk cocktail dresses and wonderful Fendi evening’s ones, all hanging on the walls, ready for you to get changed in, at any moment for a party or a ball.
But the room I fell in love with was the third one: a black wall with black art pieces of Comme des Garçons and Yohji Yamamoto, versus a coloured one, with three ‘paintings’ created by Moschino, Missoni, Genny, Byblos, Ferrè and Krizia; the absence of Japanese non-colour versus the exuberance of Italian prints and decorations.
I then felt attracted to another smaller room, no wonder; because as soon as I got close I could see medusas, gold, bright flowers and provocative models posing naked. And then the explosion! A Versace explosion! A homage to Gianni Versace and his great work.
After room n° 5, the last one, everything was clear and bright. A divine contamination between fantastic occidental creatures and arcane oriental tales; west meets east with the eclectic works of the Italian designer who changed the course of fashion history: Romeo Gigli. 8 outfits made of dreamy amusement and cultivated quotations, where craftsmanship and genius are enclosed in one-off pieces.
You’re probably dying to know where all these archive treasures came from. It’s a magical, timeless luxury haven; one of the best kept fashion secret until now: for the first time, the Archivio di Ricerca Mazzini (www.archividiricercamazzini.it) opened up, allowing you to look and discover the precious uniqueness it has to offer.
Luca Casarotto Romer
80S 90S Facing Beauties [Rimini, Museo della Città – Ala Nuova]
Ph: Giulia Ripalti