Issey Miyake presented an uncomplicated collections mixed with with sporty and elegant looks. Creative director of the Issey Miyake house, Yusuke Takahashi, drew inspiration from nature using fruits and deep-sea creatures as print.
It looked like the audience was gathered around a pier that served as a runway. This wooden white boardwalk runway and the sunny day in Paris gave the presentation a tropical-clique feel. Striking where the deep-sea blue looks and pieces with large fruit prints.
“It was a few years ago. We were sailing down somewhere in the middle of fucking Mallorca, drinking gin and tonics. The sun was going down and my dad leaned back and said, "Life is one of the hardest !”
Zigerli says, laughing uproariously. It‟s after that memory that this collection is named "Life Is One Of The Hardest‟. SS 15 sees a wonderful, darkly kooky world through the short sighted eyes of an overworked salaryman, a little twisted from interminable days of office monotony.
Prints are constructed by hand in the physical environment with foam (of the spray and moulded vari ety) instead of being manipulated on a computer screen; and "Real Life Photoshop‟ is given new meaning.
Even the inspiration for the colour palette is the CMYK colour model, and the actual Photos hop working background is used in a devoré that is true - to - photoshop - size. Luxe sportswear is still the first and foremost function; it's just under the tongue - in - cheek guise of louche suiting.
Comically twisted yet full of an odd naivety, our salaryman finally emerges from his cubicle into a mad world full of endless possibility. He can‟t quite make sense of anything, yet our hero revels in not know ing what will happen next. Because life is a pixelated beach and then you die.
music by EATING OUT
(Daniel Pitout) for JULIAN ZIGERLI SS15 Fashion Show
Illustrating his interest in the contradictory forces of disappearance and preservation, Cedric Jacquemyn's new collection references the uncontacted tribes of the Amazon, particularly the ones around the Rondônia region of Brazil.
Ignoring the standardized discourse of globalization and remaining untouched by its ruthless logics, these tribes are nevertheless threatened by industries and deforestation, becoming extinct and bound to wither away. The tension between knowledge and innocence informs most of the collection, with its focus on intricate tailoring and textural contrasts. A shawl-collared jacket unveils its detailed construction under a transparent veil of sheer fabric, emphasizing the dichotomy between sleek and rough, organic and refined.
Exposing the underpinnings of garments, Jacquemyn's approach advocates honesty instead of pretense, crafting a complex and delicate vision. Moving away from ubiquitous sportswear, the Belgian designer offers a new take on sophisticated dressing, experimental and urban at the same time.
Knitwear is sheer and unstructured, echoing natural forms and draping itself across the body. A sleeveless top features frayed edges, underlining the rawness and strength of constant survival. Leather seems cracked and lived-in, smudged and greased for a dirty effect. Buttons are visible on a pair of loose-fitting pants, tapered at the ankle for a bolder shape.
A discontinued line -inspired by the Ecuador's Tsachila people- pops up on several items, giving us another insight into the twists and turns encountered by the tribes. The passage of time - as well as the singular destinies of these isolated men- resonate within the designer's work, using an installation format to showcase his clothes, reconciling for a while victims and assailants. For the first time this season, Jacquemyn introduces womenswear within his line, responding to an ongoing demand from several clients. Adapted to the female body, key shapes are offered to fit the needs of different women, with a focus on suiting and sharp cuts. Working with noble materials, such as leather, linen, cotton and silk, the collection keeps its sensual edge, underlining the tactile nature of Jacquemyn's garments.
B/W Photography : Yves de Brabander & SOME/THINGS [S/TEAM]
Walter van Beirendonck ss 2015 collection, entitled 'WHAMBAM' was inspired by the lack of privacy we are having in this fast-moving society and the contradiction between paradise and the dark side of the world. Creating contradictions and addressing heavy issues with humor is exactly what Walter does and what came out strong in the presentation.
The collection featured stunning brocade jacquard jackets and bright colors which gave it an overall rich, exotic and fresh feel. For this collection he cooperated with many creatives, paintings are by Scooter LaForge, headpieces are designed by Jacques Blankwater, Charlie le Mindu was responsible for hair...
Strip-Project is proud to invite you to the launch party of the Strip Book magazine ♯ 1, featuring:
Alessandro Casagrande// Bernhard Handick // Bouke De Vries// Claudio Cassano// Eric Johnson //Fabio Costì// Filep Motwary// Francesco Baronti// Giulia Caira// Guillermo Turell Yarur// Lionel Bensemoun for Villa Lena// Magnus Gjoen// Manuel Zine// Manuella Martelli// Maurizio di Iorio// Newshine// Plugger// Silvia + Cemin// Sonja Gutschera & Leif Henrik Oshtoff// Stefania Paparelli// Troia Zine// Wonderful Luka// Write & Roll Society//
The Strip Book magazine number 1 will be produced and distributed in limited edition, at the BJORK Florence's bookshop, starting from July 2nd, 2014. These limited copies are free. Also you will meet the founders who took care of this project: Martina Spagnoli and Anna Ka. ☞ From 7 pm to 9.30 pm Slow motion Dj set by Guta
The collection explores abstraction of the body to re-contextualize feminine form. As Ellsworth Kelly said “I think that if you can turn off the mind and look only with the eyes, ultimately everything becomes abstract.”
By bringing everything back to the most basic and pure form, the body is removed from metaphor and association. It is human form without weight, freedom of space and perspective – “Zero of form”.
Inspired by Malevich paintings and sketches where the human form is distorted, the garments recreated these forms through outlining. There are areas of space and empty space, convexity and concavity so as to confuse the viewer to the expected relative locations of form and space. Via “holing” and flatness, There are different perspectives from all angles of the body.
In some of Malevich’s work, the background or landscape and the human figure are treated in much the same way, and there is a certain geometric rhythm and repetition of forms. These linear geometries were explained through a contrast of form and anti form via the garments through falling pleats.
Plywood, chosen for its “blankness”, for its lack of artistic connotations and meaning in art history was bent and molded in order to hold fabric into new shapes. Linens, Animal hide and leathers were used to emphasize the rawness, the deliberate connection to the earth.
In essence, the female body is stripped away from metaphor – deviating from cultural ideals the garments react against accepted forms and proportions.