FILEP MOTWARY : January 2011

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Posted on January 31, 2011 at 23:42 in iDEAL fASHION | Permalink | Comments (0) | TrackBack (0)

FRIENDLY FACES IN PARIS DURING MENSWEAR....

All photos Nicholas Georgiou © Filep Motwary

Posted on January 31, 2011 at 23:37 in iDEAL fASHION | Permalink | Comments (0) | TrackBack (0)

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JULIUS FALL 2011 / PHOTOS BY ETIENNE TORDIER

Dear iDEALS, I asked my friends at TOTEM to send me all the menswear collections in order to share them with you on Un nouVeau iDEAL. I start with Julius and some choises of my favorite looks.

I love this leather trois piece...Simply adore it!
All photos © Etienne Tordier

Posted on January 31, 2011 at 23:27 in iDEAL fASHION | Permalink | Comments (0) | TrackBack (0)

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DiSCiPLiNE REPORTS: AN INTERVIEW WITH MATTEO MOLINARI

Dear Filep and iDEALS, today DiSCiPLiNE is so glad to introduce you all Matteo Molinari, a fashion designer graduated at London College of Fashion. After his graduation he has been selected as one of most talented young for showcasing at Raphael Gallery of Victoria&Albert Museum on Wednesday February 2^nd, 2011.

We’re so proud to talk to him a few days before his catwalk.

Hi Matteo, thanks for being with us. Your collection is very interesting, such a fine handcraftship, clean and in a way experienced tailoring. Isn't it a bit unusual for a young designer?

I know what you mean, usually young designers are experimenting more with shapes, extreme styles and eye-catching proposals.

Keeping in mind that, I tried to be different starting from the traditional men wardrobe, working on the men essentials: the suits, the trench-coat, the coat and the white shirt. I changed proportions and I elaborated a persona silhouette: sharp for tailoring and structured and architectural for the coats adding the cross-gender twist of using handmade lace in a graphic and masculine way.

You've been selected among the most talented young designers in London, but these days - and i'm sure you understand - young designers are very very young. Do you think fresh air in fashion is always possible no matter what age?

My formative and professional pathway was not straight to fashion but it was quite ecleptic. I had a previous BA in Communication and another MA in Philosophy of the languages and Semiotic. After that I worked as a freelance designer in Italy for one year. All my exsperiences are present in my work, my way of approaching design and my aesthetic. Being trained as a semiotician helps me a lot in the research process for example. Growing up and being a little bit older has its good points after all.

You must have been brave to start a label on your own. Have you ever felt it could be easier to work for someone else than for yourself?

I think being indipendent has its good and bad points.

Business-wise trying to work alone is very hard and I’m experimenting it at the moment. At this stage I’d like to keep doing my things and at the same time collaborating/working for someone else. For my collection I have a great team in Italy producing my garments and my family helping me with spectacles and sunglasses and the amazingly made crochet lace, all handmade like my knitwear by some of my closest and beloved relatives.

Back to your collection: it's not easy to be very imaginative about men's fashion without sometimes being ridiculous, without mixing genres. You have done it in a very sofisticated way. How hard has it been, and how hard is keeping such a high standard?

I’ve been focused on tailoring and hand-made crafts because these elements are a huge part of my Italian heritage.

It sounds like a stereotype but I pay so much attention in the patterncutting process to get the shapes I wanted. The silhouette is distinctive and the cut of the clothes accurate and thoughtful. The quality of the clothes has been a central element. The structure of the collection reflects it: just tailored pieces, coats, trenchcoats, shirts and high waist trousers, no fancy or overstyled outfits.

What's your plan after this collection?

After the V&A show my clothes will be for a one-week exhibition in Mayfair, London. Exhibition opens to buyers, journalists, stylist and whoever is interested. After that I’ll be part of a young designers exhibition sponsored by YKK during London Fashion Week with a selection of my clothes.

At the same time I’ll be in Paris during Premier Vision.

In the next months I’ll work for an exhibition on body and fashion, presenting some garments and a short essay as part of the catalogue. This will be in Tokyo and then Stockholm.

Any interesting feedback?

Yes, I’ve been contacted by stylists and journalists interested in my work. Now my hopes are on waiting for the buyers.

Last question: you're Italian, and everyone knows rooms for young are very small there. Your choice of getting London as your base has been taken for this reason or what?

For education UK is the best place. A lot of colleges and founds are available. Fashion here is taken like a real accademic discipline, like art or philosophy. That’s very stimulating and different from Italy.

On the other hand Italy has an amazing net of small companies, high profile manufacturer that you can’t find anywhere else.

Since nearly two years I’m living between the Uk and Italy, researching and designing in London, manufacturing in Italy. A very good compromise.

The promotion of young designer in London is very strong and useful too. As a young creative you’re in one of the most prominent centers of our culture, in contact with influences from allover the world. It’s stimulating and my work is getting advantages from that.