INTERVIEW: CHRISTIAN LACROIX talks to FILEP MOTWARY

 (portrait studio Harcourt)

Dear iDEALS, you are about to read a great interview. Christian Lacroix, the designer with a universe of his own, probably the last real couturier in Paris who is now ready to write the next chapter for his empire. Read our conversation and see for yourselves. The interview is part of the 6th Fashion issue of YSTEROGRAFO magazine in Cyprus, coming out in January 2010. The only reason I am posting it now, is because Mr Lacroix shares a few details about his HOUSE's next steps, starting on October 27th.

FilepMotwary: Mr Lacroix, Thank you for the honor. I would like to start by asking you how do you see yourself in Fashion History? 

ChristianLacroix:  IT’S VERY DIFFICULT FOR ME TO HAVE AN IDEA OF MY OWN WORK AS AN OUTSIDER. BUT THE TREMENDOUS SUCCESS OF BOTH EXHIBITIONS, AT THE ARLES MUSEE REATTU ON 2008 AND AT THE MUSÉE DE LA MODE IN PARIS ON 2007, PROVED TO ME THE ENORMOUS PLEASURE PEOPLE FEEL WHEN WATCHING MY WORK. I JUST KNOW THAT I LIKE TO GIVE A TOUCH OF THEATRICAL SPIRIT IN A FLAT WORLD AND ERA, I DO THIS WITH ALL MY DUTIES, INDUSTRIAL DESIGN, HOTEL DECORATING, STAGE DESIGNING, FASHION … ETC

FilepMotwary: Are you thinking of working again for any other labels like you did in the past with Hermes and Pucci? 

ChristianLacroix: BY AGREEMENT IT WAS NO MORE POSSIBLE WITH OUR LAST AMERICAN BACKERS. WE’LL SEE WITH THE NEXT. IF I’M STILL PART OF THE VENTURE 

 

FilepMotwary: Through the years your work has evolved to be more about craftsmanship. Ultimately it has become the most source-full surface of inspiration and the signature of yours. The craftwork, the embroidery, the rich styling, the outline of your silhouettes, the references of history…What drove you? 

ChristianLacroix: AS A CHILD I WAS NOT SO INTERESTED  IN THE PERIOD I WAS LIVING IN AND FELT MUCH MORE ATTRACTED TO THE HISTORY OF MY NATIVE TOWN AND COUNTRY. AS A TEEN AGER I BECAME FONDER OF FASHION FROM THE 60S AND 70S, WHICH WERE SUCH WILD TIMES FOR AN ADOLESCENT OR A YOUNG GUY. WHEN I BECAME A FASHION DESIGNER, I LOVED MIXING & MATCHING ALL PERIODS, JUST AS  I DID WHEN I WAS A STAGE DESIGNER, , PAST, PRESENT AND FUTURE. NOW I HAVE FOUND A KIND OF BALANCE. BUT, THE MORE THE PERIOD IS TOUGH, UNHUMAN OR TOO TECHNOLOGICAL, THE MORE I FEEL THE WORK OF HANDS AND CRAFTMANSHIP ARE ESSENTIAL TO BE PRESERVED FOR THE FUTURE GENERATIONS:

 

FilepMotwary: Your approach is very baroque. At the same time many people agree that you are , probably, the only one in modern fashion that understands genuinely history. How has it helped you in your work and how difficult is to keep the line between modern fashion and costume? ChristianLacroix: THIS BAROQUE APPROACH TO  EVERYTHING IN MY LIFE IS ALSO A WAY OF AVOIDING BOREDOM. IT WAS MY STRENGTH, IT’S BEEN MORE THAN 23 YEARS NOW THAT I AM WELL-KNOWN FOR SUCH AN UNUSUAL SPIRIT. BUT IT CERTAINLY HAS BEEN A KIND OF  WEAKNESS ALSO ; SINCE IT’S NOT A BEHAVIOUR SHARED BY MANY PEOPLE. THIS IN ITSELF IS A GOOD REASON FOR KEEPING A RADICAL PATH, ONLY LISTENING TO THE VERY BOTTOM OF MY SOUL, FOLLOWING MY INTUITIONS AND MY CONVICTIONS. THEY SAY THAT HISTORY IS NOT NOSTALGIA BUT THE MOST EFFICIENT ENGINE TO IMAGINE AND VISUALISE, THE FUTURE. THE FUTURE NEEDS ROOTS, YOU HAVE TO KNOW WHERE YOU COME FROM TO GAIN THE IDEA OF WHERE YOU ARE MOVING TOWARDS.

 

FilepMotwary: A friend said: “Lacroix is the perfect hybrid of the artist with the artisan. How do see yourself in this context? 

ChristianLacroix: ARTIST IS NOT MY FAVORITE WORD FOR DESCRIBING ME. IT’S WHY EVEN IN FRENCH I USE MORE OFTEN THE WORD « DESIGNER » WHICH SEEMS TO BE MORE SUITABLE FOR THIS KIND OF ARTY CRAFTMANSHIP WHEN IT IS APPLIED TO EVERYDAY LIFE. I NEVER DID ANY PAINTING OR SCULPTURE, MOVIE  OR THEATER, TRAMWAYS OR HIGH SPEED TRAINS OR  CLOTHES ARE NOT PIECES OF ART.

  

(Photography by Steven Klein)

FilepMotwary: In my opinion the highest point of Madonna’s iconic imagery was to be seen through the lenses of Steven Klein wearing your dress. How involved were you in that collaboration. 

ChristianLacroix: QUITE PASSIVE ACTUALLY. STEVEN CHOSE AN EXISTING DRESS, THE FORMER SHOW BRIDE, AND USED IT THE MOST GENIAL WAY. SINCE THEN THIS GOWN HAS BECOME MY LUCKY CHARM, IT EPITOMIZED MY WORK AS A SYMBOL. THE MOVIE WAS ONE OF THE MOST BEAUTIFUL PIECES OF ART I’VE EVER SEEN AND I FELT MORE THAN PROUD TO BE PART OF IT IN THIS WAY.

 FilepMotwary: What is your opinion of the outcome. 

ChristianLacroix: I WANT TO BELIEVE IN A NEW WAY. THE UPCOMING GENERATION YOU REPRESENT WILL APPROACH FASHION THROUGH. A FREER, MORE PERSONAL, MORE SELF-INVENTIVE, MORE DARING, ECCENTRIC, EXTRAVAGANT WAY. WITHOUT FOLLOWING MAGAZINE AND AD’S DIKTATS, WHICH ARE TOO CONNECTED TO MONEY AND KIND OF A TREND LIKE « BIG BROTHER ». HAND-MADE, HYPERLUXE, BACK TO THE ROOTS BUT NOT IN A HIPPY WAY … ETC …

 

FilepMotwary: Where is fashion heading? 

ChristianLacroix: STRAIGHT TO A GAP, TOWARDS A DEAD END: ON THE ONE HAND YOU HAVE THE NARCISSIC MASTURBATION OF FASHION PEOPLE, PRESS PHOTOGRAPHS, AND EDITORS. THEY ARE CREATING A FAKE FASHION WORLD FOR THEMSELVES, THEIR PALS AND COLLEAGUES. ONLY. AND ON THE OTHER HAND YOU HAVE THE BIG CLEVER LABELS LIKE ZARA, H&M, UNIQLO WHICH ARE CONNECTED TO THE STREET AND REAL CONSUMERS BUT SHARE A FLAT VIEW. MAGAZINES ARE ONLY OPEN TO RICH LABELS, THE ONES THAT ARE ABLE TO SPEND BILLIONS ON ADVERTISING. THAT GIVES THE PUBLIC A FAKE AND DISCOURAGING IMAGE OF OUR WORK.

 

 FilepMotwary: How do you see the use of “future” references and approach in fashion in combination with technology? 

ChristianLacroix: IT STARTED WITH SPORT AND SCIENCE. AND OUR REACTIONS TO THE CLIMATE CHANGE PROBLEM AND THE VARIOUS EPIDEMICS.  TECHNOLOGICAL INNOVATIONS MIGHT GIVE NEW OPPORTUNITIES TO DESIGNERS IN THE FASHION FIELD. BUT THE FUTURISTIC LOOKS AS COURREGES AND RABANNE, WITH TOO LOUD A SPATIAL OR SCIENTIFIC MESSAGE ARE OVER. WHY NOT MIX TECHNOLOGY AND « RUSTIC » MIXED IN THE SAME PLACE, OBJECT OR ATTIRE???

 FilepMotwary: Out of the young designers breed, who are the ones you like the most and why? ChristianLacroix: AS I TOLD YOU ABOVE, THE MORE DARING ARE THE BEST FOR ME. SOMETIMES A LOOK AT A PIECE, AN ACCESSORY BY A NOT YET KNOWN STYLIST AND IT ATTRACTS ME. I LIKE THE ONES LIKE BERNARD WHILLELM THE MOST. THIS SEASON I LIKED SOME » ERDEM » LOOKS, UNDERCOVER AND WATANABE, SOME MENSWEAR COLLECTIONS I SAW ON YOUR POP SITE BUT I DON’T REMEMBER THEIR NAMES. RODARTE TOO.

FilepMotwary: Please share your opinion about this sudden blossom of pseudo-couture?

ChristianLacroix: AS I SAID, HAND-MADE IS ON TRACK AGAIN BECAUSE IT PROVIDES ONE-OF-A-KIND PIECES. THIS IS WHAT WE NEED IN A MIDDLE CLASS OR MAINSTREAM ALLURE OF THE STREETS WHICH IS ACTUALLY THE REFLECTION OF THE WHOLE WORLD. AFTER A LOUD WAVE OF CASUAL, SPORTSWEAR, NO-FASHION TRENDS OR TOO LOUD LOGOS (THAT’S NO-FASHION AT THE END TOO, JUST A STATUS-SYMBOL) WE NEED MORE ECCENTRICITY, EXTRVAGANZA AS ON THE  80’ WITH DALLAS AND DINASTY EXAGERATED LOOKS. THE 80’S DECADE SEEMS NOW TO BE A LOST PARADISE FOR BABIES LIKE YOU. IT WAS NOT SO WONDERFUL WITH UPCOMING PROBLEMS LIKE AIDS AND FINANCIAL CRISIS. FOR US AT THE TIME THE 40’ WERE THE BEST DECADE AND IF YOU LOOK CAREFULLY IN FASHION FROM 20 OR 30 YEARS AGO, DESIGNERS WERE MOSTLZ INFLUENCED BY THE 40’S PADDINGS, MENS SUITS, HIGH HEELS, PLATFORMS, HEAVY FAKE JEWELRY, DRAMATIC MAKE-UP AND HIGH HAIRDOS … ETC … BECAUSE THEY HAD THIS COUTURE TOUCH WE NEEDED.

WHEN I STARTED AT PATOU AND KARL LAGERFELD AT CHANEL SOME SEASONS LATER EVERYTHING PRETENDED TO HAVE A « COUTURE » STATUS IN THE PRESS AND ADVERTISING: « COUTURES CARS », « COUTUREE CUISINE », « COUTURE DECORATION ». IT HAS TO BE « HAUTE », IT HAS TO BE « HOT ». THE SAME WAVE IS BACK SINCE FASHION IS A STORY OF CHRONOLOGICAL WAVES.

  FilepMotwary: The industry has become so powerful and big , it seems that everything is possible. Is there a line separating prêt-a-porter from couture since everything made the second so special doesn’t have the same impact anymore? 

ChristianLacroix: GOOD QUESTION, YOU’RE RIGHT! READY TO WEAR , WANNABE-COUTURE AND COUTURE LOST ITS IMPACT SINCE SEVERAL SEASONS AND MADE HOUSES VANISH. IT’S NOW THE BEST OPPORTUNITY FOR DEFINING OUR METIERS FROM ZERO, RE-THINKING A MORE GENUINE AND COHERENT AND TRUE « HAUTE COUTURE » BESIDE A CLEVER NEW WAY OF PRODUCING PRET-À-PORTER. PERHAPS COUTURE IS NO MORE A LABEL BUT A FEELING, A STYLE, A TOUCH : SOME COUTURE HOUSES PARADOXICALLY DO NOT HAVE THIS « SAVOIR-FAIRE » OR « JE NE SAIS QUOI » .ON THE OTHER HAND SOME POOR UNKNOWN BEGINNER MIGHT OR COULD, HAVE IT. THIS IS A TRANSITION PERIOD AND IT’S WHY IT’S EXCITING. THE TROUBLE MY HOUSE IS IN IS VERY SYMBOLIC OF THE PROBLEM YOU EVOKE.

 
FilepMotwary: Why does couture still breath? Is it merely a question of tradition? 

ChristianLacroix: COUTURE DOESN’T BREATHE SO EASILY ANYMORE . IT’S IMMORTAL I THINK, WHEN MADE IN THE RIGHT WAY , A ONE OF A KIND PIECE MADE ESPECIALLY FOR ONE CUSTOMER FOR HER (OR HIM!!!) TO FEEL UNIQUE, TO BE THE ACTRESS OF HER OWN LIFE, SO SPECIAL. AND IT’S A TYPICL FRENCH « HOW-TO-DO », « KNOW-HOW », MYSTERIOUSLY. IT’S WHY DESIGNERS FROM GERMANY, ENGLAND, STATES COME TO PARIS SHOWING THE BEST OF THEIR WORKS, FOR THIS, PARISIAN FLAVOR, WE PROVIDE GOOD SEAMSTRESSES, EMBROIDERERS, ACESSORIES MAKERS. AND THESE METIERS ARE STILL ALIVE BECAUSE THEY HAVE NEW BLOOD FROM THESE « ABROAD » COLLABORATORS, SUPPLIERS OR CUSTOMERS. PARIS SIZZLES WHEN IT OPENS ITS MIND, HEART AND ARMS TO FOREIGNERS. JUST AS WE DID DURING THE XXTH CENTURY, RECEIVING ARTISTS FROM THE WHOLE WORLD, THOSE WHO WERE ESCAPING WARS OR OPPRESSIONS, OR EVEN TWENTY YEARS AGO WITH MIDDLE EUROPEAN YOUNG CRAFTSMANSHIP PEOPLE. WITH THIS SHARING AND A BRAND NEW RE-DEFINITION OF COUTURE I THINK PARIS WILL LAST.

FilepMotwary: What provokes the strongest emotions in you nowadays, compared to what made you emotional in the past? 

ChristianLacroix: MORE AND MORE SUBTLE THINGS, LESS LOUD IMPRESSIONS. A LIGHT MORE THAN A SHOW, A WORD MORE THAN A NOVEL, A NOISE MORE THAN AN OPERA EVEN IF LIVE THEATER IS STILL VERY IMPORTANT FOR ME, JUST AS IS GOOD WINE, GOOD CUISINE. MORE FLIRTING THAN FUCKING !!!

FilepMotwary: In what phase is Maison Lacroix at the moment? 

ChristianLacroix: THE TRIBUNAL WILL DECIDE ON OCTOBER 27TH WHICH « DOSSIER » THEY’LL FAVOR. FALICS SUBMITED ONE, SOME OTHER FINANCIAL PEOPLE DID TOO AND I CHOSE TO GIVE MY SUPPORT AND SIGNATURE TO THE SHEIKH OF AJMAN WHO SEEMS TO BE THE STRONGEST SOLUTION. WE’LL SEE. BUT IF WE WIN, IT WILL BE TIME FOR A NEW RE-BIRTH AND TO WORK FOR REAL ON ALL THE IDEAS I’M TALKING ABOUT TO YOU HERE.

FilepMotwary: Do you feel responsible for the people who work for you? 

ChristianLacroix: OF COURSE. IF I STRUGGLED SO HARD ALL THESE MONTHS SINCE ONE YEAR AGO, OR EVEN BEFORE THAT, PERSONALLY NOT BEING PAID AND GOING THROUGH THE MOST AWFUL EXPERIENCES IT’S FOR MY PEOPLE AND ABOVE ALL THE SEAMSTRESSES IN THE COUTURE WORK ROOMS BECAUSE THEY TRULLY ARE FAIRIES, WITH SKILLS AND A FRAGILE POSITION IN SOCIETY, THEY DESERVE TO RECEIVE THE BEST TREATMENT AND NOT  REMAIN EMPTY-HANDED, ALL DAY LONG, WHEN CLIENTS RAVE AND ASK FOR THE ORDERS; THE CHAPTER ELEVEN FORBID US TO PROVIDE TILL THE END OF THE PROCESS. SO, WHATEVER WILL BE THE NEWS ON NEXT TUESDAY IT WILL BE A RELIEF.

 FilepMotwary: How have all these new twisted “happenings” affected you as a person and professional? 

ChristianLacroix:I FEEL I AM BOTH AN OPTIMISTIC AND A PESSIMISTIC GUY AT THE SAME TIME BUT REALLY ROOTED IN REALITY OF MY WORLD, DUTIES AND FUTURE. I’M BORN IN THE SOUTH, IN A MEDITERRANEAN TOWN AND COUNTRY WHERE I LEARNT A GREEK-LATIN SENSE OF ANTIQUE LIFE, BELIEVING IN FATE, ANCESTORS, AND GODS. IT HELPS. I’M BORN A TAURUS WITH A LEO ASCENDANT TOO. THAT’S NOT EASY FOR ME AND PEOPLE AROUND ME, BUT IT FILKS ME WITH STRENGTH, EGO AND CONCRETE « ENTÊTEMENT » AND « DROITURE » THAT ARE VERY MUCH NEEDED IN SUCH BATTLES. I WANT TO WIN BECAUSE MY PEOPLE AND THE PAST OF THE HOUSE DESERVE IT. AND BECAUSE I DEEPLY FEEL I’M RIGHT … MUST SAY THAT I DISCOVERED THIS COURAGE SOME YEARS AGO WHEN I HAD TO FIGHT WITH LVMH : WRESTLING GIVES ME ENERGY, ANGER TOO. AND I LOVE BEGINING NEW STORIES, SO …

 

FilepMotwary: What then, at the end the of the day, Lacroix is all about? 

ChristianLacroix:I MUST SAY I’M USING THIS LITTLE BREAK FOR WORKING EVEN MORE ON STAGE (REMAKE OF A 1986 BALLET, « GRIPPINA » AT BERLIN STAATSOPER, ANOTHER OPERA AT PARIS OPERA-COMIQUE, ON HOTEL DECORATING, ON THE MONTPELLIER TRAMWAYS, ON FNAC, EXHIBITIONS, MANY THINGS I’M PASSIONATE FOR SINCE MY CHILDHOOD (I OFTEN THANK GOD FOR BEING SUCH A BLESSED PERSON HAVING BEEN ABLE OR REALIZING ALL MY FIRST DREAMS). AND LIVING IN LE MARAIS IS LIKE LIVING PROTECTED IN A VILLAGE THAT YOU GO  BACK TO EVERY NIGHT. AND I’M LUCKY ENOUGH TO HAVE JUST A VERY SELECT HANDFULL OF FRIENDS BUT ONLY THE MOST WONDERFUL KIND, AS OLIVIER SAILLARD, IN CHARGE  OF MUSÉE DE LA MODE AMONG OTHERS. I AM ABLE OF SHARING NOT ONLY FRIENDSHIP BUT LAUGHS, PROJECTS, TROUBLES. ALSO, MY WIFE FRANCOISE IS A TREASURE OF WIT, STRENGTH AND A VERY INDIVIDUAL SPECIAL CHARACTER. EXHIBITIONS, BORDEAUX WINE, SKETCHING, LISTENING TO MUSIC AND READING, ALL THESE ARE HELPFUL ACTIVITIES FOR COLLECTING THE PIECES OF MY OWN PERSONAL VITAL PUZZLE AND FEELING WHO I AM, DEEPLY, TRUELY, MYSELF FOR REAL. 

NOTE: The images illustrating our conversation where found on Google. Forgive me for any missing credits. The real visual  material  provided by Maison Lacroix will only be seen in the actual printed issue of  Ysterografo.

Whole or part of this conversation can be used only with written permission.

Edited by Panayiotis Hadjistephanou

Comments

[AL giga]

BRILLIANT INTERVIEW! YOU ARE AMAZING FILEP! BRAVO FOR ALL YOUR HARD WORK AND INOVATIVE RESEARCH!!!! I ADMIRE YOU AS MUCH AS I DO MR. LACROIX!

[streykatt]

inspiring! thank you!

[diane pernet]

Loved this, don't know how I missed it before.xxx

[F.M]

Thank you for reading Diane.
xx