Dear iDEALS, this is the new collection by Romina Karamanea as presented during the London Fashion Week a few days back. Romina is a designer I really like both as a creator and as a person. As you may notice, this post has a lot of "back" images of Romina's creations. The reason is simply because I feel that some of the clothes when seen from behind are complete masterpieces. The details are fantastic. A real couture touch transferred onto everyday wear. Well done Romina.
Also , I am re-posting an older interview of Romina Karamanea, first published online through the previews web address of Un nouVeau iDEAL. It was very hard for me to find it since the old blog has been deleted for some months now.
The interview first went online on Thursday, November 22, 2007
Dear iDEALS, Romina Karamanea is a young, emerging Greek fashion designer living in London. Her work has been recently applauded by several important fashion bibles such as SURFACE magazine. Even Isabella Blow noticed her talents, a few months before she passed away.
FILEP MOTWARY: How does it feel for a Greek working in the London Fashion scene?
ROMINA KARAMANEA: I never really thought of it that way but to be honest, I do not feel that the fact that I am Greek makes me feel much different from other designers working in London. Although being brought up in Greece contributed to the passionate and determined person that I am today.Establishing myself in London has never been for me a “national challenge” and my nationality has certainly not opened or closed any doors in my career so far.It was and remains an inspiring and highly competitive platform that motivates me to become better in what I do.
FILEPMOTWARY:How where things for you when you first started compared to now? Where are you now and what are your future plans?
ROMINA KARAMANEA: Being a young graduate I felt in a way as being an “actress” trying to become a part of a team that I believed in. Some years after, my development in the field gave me the opportunity, to see things differently. Today I feel that this team that I wanted to be part of, I can be its’ “director” and not just a member. As for my future plans, winning an Oscar in Cannes would not be that bad. If you know what I mean…
FILEPMOTWARY: How important is the aftermath of a finished collection, regarding the steps you need to take for the next one?
ROMINA KARAMANEA:The fact that my work is being criticized is enough to motivate me to take it to the next level. Now how each collection is been received (positively/negatively) is important but not critical for how I feel that my work is being evolved.I have always believed that the strictest judge of my work is myself-and I do not say that in a selfish kind of way. I value feedback but after all, I know myself better than anyone and my expectations are very high! I develop my skill, feeling always responsible to better my last effort.
FILEP MOTWARY:Do you see the LONDON FASHION REVIVAL really coming , or is it just rumors. How different are things compared to 2005 to now?
ROMINA KARAMANEA: Do I have to get into the procedure to analyse marketing terms? Because in the end of the day this is what it is all about. UK academically it is one of the most respected countries in the world. Having that reputation by default in combination with the very clever marketing that promotes the whole idea of London producing edgy fashion designers that graduate from schools such as Central Saint Martins has as a result for the last 15 years London being one of the most attractive destinations-for young people that want to study fashion and get industrial experience. That makes London the ultimate “stepping stone”. That is what it really stands for in the global fashion industry. The phenomenon “British” fashion designers –regardless nationality- having been appointed creative directors for some of the worlds’ most respected fashion houses is no coincidence.London fashion Week isn’t the same after McQueen, Kokosalaki, Chalayan and Boudicca decided to showcase their collections in Paris instead. Press and buyers lost their interest and even skipped LFW visits. That created a need for LFW to discover and support new up and coming talent in order to put London back in the international fashion map. London is a place that launches new generation of designers every few years. Some of which will be changing tomorrow’s scene.
FILEP MOTWARY: Your summer collection has many references in architecture, straight or horizontal lines, pleats....What is the story behind it?
ROMINA KARAMANEA: My work has always had architectural references-even while I was still studying.I love the challenge of experimenting with new forms and linear structures around the curvaceous female body and I guess that this has become my design signature over the last few years…For my latest collection S/S 2008 I wanted to create a look that would translate how I see society today transforming young, naive girls into strong, robot-esque women, in order to survive in the fast and demanding Metropolis.Strong emphasis is given on the Armour-like, squared upper part of the silhouette, especially at the shoulders and necklines; which are cropped, Tetris-like in various places to reveal the human still underneath. These also work as accessories that accent the collection and have a multi functional use.The lower part of the silhouette (in most pieces)is representing sensitivity and nostalgia, as it is kept sheer and fluid with delicate feminine details such as fine pleating.Contrast is also expressed on the colour palette. Bright clean colours like white and chartreuse opposite deep tones of forest, burgundy and black. Fabrics range from soft silk chiffons to waxed coated cottons.
FILEPMOTWARY: Are you a part of the London Night Crowd? Why do you think London is stills o eccentric?
ROMINA KARAMANEA: What is these kid's real aim behind their make-up. Occasionally, to catch up with friends. I have been clubbing for over 10 years in London and felt like taking a break from it all. I now spend most of my time in the studio concentrating on my work. London was and still is eccentric because it is one of the major international cultural centers. That makes it the most popular city in Europe.
Today its population exceeds 8 million and its influence in politics, education, entertainment, media, fashion and the arts all contribute to its status as a major global city. Its residents come from such a diverse background and religions and in order for that to work it was necessary that people respected each others freedom of expression.
This “freedom” can of course be viewed as eccentricity by its visitors (tourists) but for someone who actually lives in London for a while it becomes every day normality. As for the purpose of young clubbers wearing theatrical make-up I would think that it is a way to escape the pressure of this demanding city and have fun. Also the fact that London has such a huge population creates a need -at least for some people- to stand out from the crowd and celebrate their individuality.
FILEP MOTWARY: Is it true that most people in the fashion magazines we buy work for free? Do you think that the fashion industry takes advantage of the young and talented?
ROMINA KARAMANEA: Working for such magazines is a mutual point of reference for young creative professionals and the only platform that will allow them to express their creative vision and let them push the boundaries. Having published work in directional magazines will eventually pay these artists dividends as it gives their work much needed credentials. Something essential in order to sign up with an agent that will agree to represent their work to international clients and will open them doors to well paid opportunities like advertising campaigns. So if you ask me it is more of an investment.
FILEP MOTWARY: What are your plans for the future?
ROMINA KARAMANEA: Explore and expand. But most importantly continue doing what I love without having to compromise in ways that are against my ideals. I aim to develop my technique and at the same time be self-critical. I have dreams and ambition, and I try –as much as I can-to define them in the realms of logic. A real challenge! Therefore, I am prepared to go the extra mile in order to achieve my professional goals through hard work and realistic business planning.
NOTE: The interview of Romina is part of the FASHION ISTEROGRAFO FASHION ISSUE III coming out in JANUARY 2008. The photos are by PANOS DAVIOS.
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