(Portrait J.P.Mondino)
Dear iDEALS, Walter Van Beirendonck is one of “Antwerp Six”, which stands on its own as a tittle to carry (a rather heavy one one might say). I am happy to reveal to you this nice converation I had with Mr Beirendonck, perhaps the most influential and breakthrough menswear designers of our time, having mentored the famed Bernhard Willhelm as well as other young emerging talents who are lucky enough to have him as their tutor at the Royal Academy of Fine Arts in Antwerp. For the moment his is exhibiting 2357, an art installation at Polaris Gallery in Paris. See more of that here, on Diane Pernet's Shaded Blog.
Filep Motwary: What are the most memorable moments in your career so far, acquaintances and collaborations? Why? What has been your career high to date?
W.V.BEIRENDONCK: Every new collection is a highlight for me. I love to work together with other creative people. Bono (U2), Marc Newson, Jurgen Teller, Rei Kawakubo, Mondino, Ronald Stoops, Inge Grognard, Orlan, Dirk van Saene..are a few of the people which I enjoyed working with. Some off my huge fashion shows back in the nineties you surely can call career highs.
(Photo Ronald Stoops)
FilepMotwary: Belgium made its entrance on the map of Fashion during the mid 1980’s thanks to you, Ann Demeulemeester, Margiela...Could you describe this wave back then, the difficulties and the whole evolution in General that today, still remains as the most sophisticated part of the world’s fashion industry?
W.V.BEIRENDONCK: We (the six + 1) were totally innocent, not knowing how to deal with the “real” fashion world after graduating from the Antwerp royal academy. But we wear ambitious, sticked together, got finally out of Belgium and rocked the fashion world. I’m also really proud that I’m teaching in the academy for more that 26 years. I teached great new talents who became also well known names in the fashion world. Of course is my favourite: Bernard Wilhelm.
Since two years I’m head of the fashion department and sure to deliver more talents in the future. Belgium raised students (coming from all over the world) do rock the fashion world once again!
FilepMotwary: Your work is like a canvas full of messages, Can fashion be a protest? Can a protest be fashionable?
W.V.BEIRENDONCK: Fashion should be rethink , react and renew. Fashion designers, as all creative people, should have the role to criticize, reflect our contemporary society. The rhythm and pace of fashion is a perfect way tot protest-anything can be fashionable Why not! Obama is very fashionable and isn’t that politics?
FilepMotwary: Classicism as we know it today requires balance and order in colors or shape. Yet, your work moves towards another dimension. How do you translate what you do?
W.V.BEIRENDONCK: My final goal is not to do achieve a kind of classicism. But even in my work, balance and order of colour, and shape is extremely important. Of course the final result is a real personal vision and view. What I do: My personal challenge is to change and let evolve the boundaries of (men’s) fashion. I like to experiment and thinking about the possibilities to express my vision, view, thoughts and ideas in my collections and project.
FilepMotwary: From 1985 to this day, you are head of the 3rd Bachelor and Master at the Royal Academy of Arts in Antwerp. Describe the contradiction of showing your work as a designer and at the same time, teaching fashion to young students.
W.V.BEIRENDONCK: I don’t see it as a contradiction. My strong fantasy gives me the real possibility to guide and help young talents. I get into their “heads”, think for them and try to push their limits. That’s what is called: “teaching and learning”
FilepMotwary: What do you think it means to categorise you as a 'Belgian designer'?
W.V.BEIRENDONCK: We are all rather different, but what all “Belgians” (or designers raised in Antwerp) do have in common, is that we want to tell a story or do a statement in our collections.
This we reach trough research, and we all inject a big dose of our own charter and interest in the world, in our collection. We don’t care for glam, glitz and stars on the first row.
FilepMotwary: What does fashion mean to you? What does it need in your opinion? What is modern and what is old?
W.V.BEIRENDONCK: Fashion needs passion, experiment, soul, risks, changing…. I love it and hate it at the same time.
It is great to realize (afterwards) now dominant fashion trends are visible in the world. We try to avoid following trends, but we can’t avoid to be influenced by them, even the most forward-thinkers.
FilepMotwary:How do you think the interns help fashion these days? How important is for you having young people working around you?
W.V.BEIRENDONCK: I select every season 2/3 interns which work intensively in my studio. I love the dynamic energy from this young people, and I do like “to teach” them new things.
FilepMotwary: How different are the needs you had when you fist started compared to where you stand today? Please, could you include your ideals and beliefs as a person?
W.V.BEIRENDONCK: The needs are still the same: getting money together to do what I like to do in my work.Despite the fact that my career was a rollercoaster ride, going up and down, I’m proud that I always achieved to do what I wanted to do, and despite the fact that most of the fashion world is a scary, money business, superficial and killing….. I keep on believing.
FilepMotwary: How was your upbringing?
W.V.BEIRENDONCK: Simple and caring, in a small town in the countryside. loving animals and nature.
(Stefan Van Fleteren)
FilepMotwary: Do you think that “one chooses his path of life” depending on the influences he has from childhood or is it some sort of decision we take based on personal choices? How was Walter Van Beirendonck as a teenager compared to the students you teach?
W.V.BEIRENDONCK: As a teenager I was innocent, but ready to discover the world.. Now, students are informed by the web. Seeing and “googling” a lot, but missing the right contexts.
FilepMotwary: Has the economic crises affected the way you think or work?
W.V.BEIRENDONCK: Definitely the more commercial projects I’m involved in!
FilepMotwary: Could you share with us any short coming plans and projects?
W.V.BEIRENDONCK: “W6YZ”
Note: The interview is part of the 5th FASHION ISTEROGRAFO, supplement of Phileleftheros Cyprus.
Walter Van Beirendonck is represented by TOTEM.Paris
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There’s a place in your heart and I know that it is love. This place could be much brighter than tomorrow and if you really try You’ll find there’s no need to cry.
Posted by: coach purse | July 02, 2010 at 10:51