Dear iDEALS, Jean Charles De Castelbajac is the designer who gave colour its real meaning. His clothes are like a rocker’s scream and so is his attitude towards life. Counting almos four decades of pure career in fashion, it was finally the time for him to gather some of his greatest moments into an exhibition at Galliera Museum in Paris and for the world to understand the history of an independent poet. This interview means a lot to me because Castelbajac influenced my dreams as a child, while looking at his shows on television. During my recent visit in Paris, I had the opportunity to see his collection up close, front stage and backstage. Right after the show, I went to his boutique and bought myself three pairs of Castelbajac trainers. I needed to be a part of his universe.
FilepMotwary: During our frequent conversations I came to realize that apart from a great designer who has his own golden footprint on the map of international fashion, you are also very polite as a person. I still cannot believe that you have given me some of your precious time in a period like this. How do you feel your manners reflect in your work?
JeanCharlesdDeCastelbajac: Courtoisie is representing the respect I have for others. It is also a way to take time to listen. I belong to a generation where conversation, correspondence and reading was the essential, so I have been fed by that…Good manners and values cannot be bought on Avenue Montaigne with eternity American express card.
FilepMotwary:In William Klein's "Mode in France" (1984) you appear to be tripping on your own personal cloud. It was a good way of introducing your flag-sized prints to the world. It's been 23 years since that appearance. Where does Castelbajac stand today?
FilepMotwary:In William Klein's "Mode in France" (1984) you appear to be tripping on your own personal cloud. It was a good way of introducing your flag-sized prints to the world. It's been 23 years since that appearance. Where does Castelbajac stand today?
JC/DC: I quit utopia's territory. I belong in the bran new world where resistance is far behind and I decided to quit on the time of unanimity, for the sake of creation, for the people; the industry and technology today are extraordinary tools for an artist.
FilepMotwary: You are maybe the only designer in Paris who has the dignity to openly support the young designers. What is actually your goal behind this generous "push" you are giving?
FilepMotwary: You are maybe the only designer in Paris who has the dignity to openly support the young designers. What is actually your goal behind this generous "push" you are giving?
JC/DC: I don’t think about generosity when I support a young designer. I think about collaboration; it can be in music, photo, film or design. The field does not matter to me. The final idea is to achieve a common opus. I am terribly exigent with the people I defend, they have to be unique, determined, curious and talented and most of all brave.
FilepMotwary: By seeing your collections past and present, one gets into a playful mood. The colors, the shapes, the messages embroidered on the fabrics…Do you think that fashion is a protest these days, like it used to be when Katherine Hamnett was around in the 1990's?
FilepMotwary: By seeing your collections past and present, one gets into a playful mood. The colors, the shapes, the messages embroidered on the fabrics…Do you think that fashion is a protest these days, like it used to be when Katherine Hamnett was around in the 1990's?
JC/DC: The manifesto of today’s fashion is money, as it is in any other industry. The only way to use it politicaly and artistically is by making it part of another medium that will have an extraordinary or popular access to the youth generations. This is the strength I wanted to create with the chaotic stenography of exhibition Galliériérock, based on my entire career. Today’s strategy tools are millions.
FilepMotwary: What does fashion need to move forward in your opinion?
JC/DC: Young people, and their entire medium.
FilepMotwary: You count a respectable amount of years career-wise. How different are the needs you had when you fist started compared to where you stand today? Please, could you include your ideals and beliefs as a person?
JC/DC: Back then, we were pure artists, sort of like rock n’roll stars and we just wanted to ask questions and to be on stage. Today it is all different because marketing is the only answer; I feel actually quite at home today. It is very exciting to be a creative virus in such a perfect time and global machine.
FilepMotwary: To what degree do you inadvertently fictionalize your own past?
FilepMotwary: What does fashion need to move forward in your opinion?
JC/DC: Young people, and their entire medium.
FilepMotwary: You count a respectable amount of years career-wise. How different are the needs you had when you fist started compared to where you stand today? Please, could you include your ideals and beliefs as a person?
JC/DC: Back then, we were pure artists, sort of like rock n’roll stars and we just wanted to ask questions and to be on stage. Today it is all different because marketing is the only answer; I feel actually quite at home today. It is very exciting to be a creative virus in such a perfect time and global machine.
FilepMotwary: To what degree do you inadvertently fictionalize your own past?
JC/DC: My past is just a fantastic data base and a sentimental secret garden where some roses are unique and some trees are immortal.
FilepMotwary: How do you feel about this new generation of photogenic design stars, whose coverage have nothing less from how often they appear to parties or in the celebrity papers as it does their clothes?
JC/DC: Well, I think it is fun and as my friend Malcolm Maclaren says “it does look sometimes as it is a huge karaoke party.
JC/DC: Well, I think it is fun and as my friend Malcolm Maclaren says “it does look sometimes as it is a huge karaoke party.
FilepMotwary: While watching your collection for fall/winter 2007/09 I noticed some real eccentrics on the front row, people like Andree Putman, Anna Piaggi, Diane PERNET..It seems that these people totally respect your point of view in terms of modernism. Is there a category you put yourself as a designer and how important is for you having the support of such personalities, who have already marked a fashion period with their personal taste?
JC/DC: Eccentricity is the-must-natural attitude in this normalization system we live in. I see it as the ultimate bravery with dandyism.
FilepMotwary: Did you ever feel that other designers made off with your controversial use of colors and techniques and claimed them as their own epiphany?
FilepMotwary: Did you ever feel that other designers made off with your controversial use of colors and techniques and claimed them as their own epiphany?
JC/DC: “Vas-Vers ton risque, a te regarder ils habiturons” René Char
FilepMotwary: What is love for JEAN CHARLES DE CASTELBAJAC?
JC/DC: All!!!
FilepMotwary: How did you see Lanvin's (Alber Elbaz) big prints on the dresses he designed for summer 2007?
JC/DC: In our society, everyone is making his/her "ideas-shopping" only because there is suddenly an image of a world with a big lack of culture. This happens every day. In this case (Lanvin) I was surprised because Alber
has his own university, so I thank him for the “homage”.
has his own university, so I thank him for the “homage”.
FilepMotwary: What is behind the idea of the GalieRock exhibition?
JC/DC: The portrait of myself and the rear sale of my next project, a rock opera entitled Eneco
FilepMotwary: Thank you very much Monsieur Castelbajac, it was an honor for me to have this conversation.
(portrait Filep Motwary)
(portrait Filep Motwary)
I love Jean-Charles de Castelbajacs work, unfortunatly I'm not living in Paris or London but it seems like he is starting a jcdc shop online at http://www.jcdcstore.com
Posted by: Carl | September 03, 2010 at 12:40
Great interview. JCDC is one of the most creative designers from the past 50 years, on a par with Westwood, Gaultier, Galliano, Mugler, Montana, McQueen... Perhaps his work is actually too original to be as commercially successful as the others'?
http://davidikus.blogspot.com/
Posted by: davidikus | September 14, 2010 at 15:11
Hi have just found a little vintage boutique with a lot of amazing vintage Castelbajac! A must! it's in Hoxton and you can find theirs address at www.housofliza.co.uk. I got an amazing 70's linen jacket. yummy yummy!
Posted by: Sal | October 06, 2010 at 18:46