Dear
iDEALS, Swedish Fashion seems to evolve day by day. It definitely
proved to be faster than Amsterdam's and mush more focused it terms of
garment structure.Helena Horstedt,
now on her second catwalk show, is one of Sweden's most exciting new
designers. Sweden has already proved it's being thanks to Sandra
Backlund, who has already been presented here, in Isterografo,
in a previews fashion issue. As Helena converses about the folding
shapes, it does reflect her artistic knowledge of foundation art such
as complex paper folding techniques, early principles of The Platonic
Solids and the idea of multi-layering tactile material which adds
strength, durability and diversity in how a garment can result after
production.She also explains that her natural hair colour is actually
lighter than what is currently.
Filep Motwary: Helena, your work is very a "mature" one in terms of describing a wearable collection, yet it is quite impressive for me to see that the silhouette you designed is rather eccentric. How do you combine the two?
Helena Hörstedt :Well I think that describe the person behind quite good, I am a woman of contradictions, always drawn to the tension them between. I love the elegance of the past, the sculpted silhouette and the feeling of timeless classic. But I am for sure not into doing some kind of "update vintage". I work a lot with the classic shoulder-waist-hip silhouette (forgot the term) but with a very non classic contents. In my designs as well as in my working process, you'll find a contrast between organic randomness and the architectonically calculated. I am extremely fascinated by structures and techniques. Especially this kind of constructed/scheduled ones with a graphic base but with an organic result. I'm a complex person as a creator, one part of me needs to have control, I love mathematical constructions, and everything has to be perfect and organized for every millimeter. The other part of me needs to lose control and do whatever comes up. I have found these intricate techniques as a perfect way to combine my two personalities. The results are like an organic accident, but they are scheduled for every millimeter and I do pattern and instructions for everything. These techniques also provide one of the things I have found as the most inspiring, when a plain surface with just a couple of folding or knots becomes a growing three dimensional.
Filep Motwary: How big is your collection and what is the aim you have when making a collection?
Helena
Hörstedt :Fashion is to me primarily a way of expressing myself, like
an asylum where my thoughts, my values and my needs rules. I am quite
diffuse in my inspiration, it's mainly about myself, something I have
gone through, heading for, a mood, a feeling. They are about 10 pieces
and this was my fifth collection and my second solo effort.
FilepMotwary: Do you sell in boutiques or have personal clients?
Helena Hörstedt : Garments from Helena Hörstedt are for now only sold
by demand directly from the studio in Stockholm, Sweden. All pieces are
handmade by the designer herself, made by measure or in a size.
Filepmotwary: Would you proffered living and working in Paris? If yes why?
No, if I had I would have moved there. I like it in Stockholm, Sweden.
It's a safe and peaceful place to be based at. I spend most of my time
working in my lovely studio and that's for the moment the best place to
be. And if I am needed Stockholm is close to everything! My work on the
other hand would love to be in Paris...
Filep Motwary: What is the concept behind your new collection? How many people work in your team? Describe them.
Helena Hörstedt: My a/w2008 collection is called "Broken Shadow".A
shadow play-Abstract but concrete, a protection but in the same time a
sharp uncover, A shade of the past and an indication of the future, a
follower who constantly changes its appearance. Only by entering the
shadows can they become real and new ones be created. The collection is
something of a frustrated explosion, a way to get rid of the past, a
kick of for something new. But only by entering the shadows can they
become real and new ones be created.There is only one in my team, ME...
I collaborate with a fantastic musician and a creative coordinator for
my show but I am the one who does everything otherwise. I like it that
way, I want things to be done in my way, I want to take all the
decisions and need to have totally control... But I have come to a
point when I have realize that this make it impossible to move forward.
I work 24-7 but it's just not enough. I have decided to find a way not
making everything myself. I will be hard to let go but I have found it
necessary if being able to spend my time on the things I find the most
important and I am indescribably tired of chasing the time...
FilepMotwary: You are 30 years old like me. How different do you see
things now than you did at the age of 20. How does your family support
you?
Helena Hörstedt: Wow. 20, it feels like decades ago! A lot have
happened since those days. I have always stood up for my self and done
what I felt was important and right for the moment. But I am much safer
in my self, it's a fantastic feeling to have something that's mine, in
the 20 I was still very confused and searching for my "place". I also
know something I back then just dreamed to be true; with genuine hard
work everything really are possible! I have a lovely family, they do
everything they can to help me and out. It wouldn't be possible without
there support, I love and adore them!
FilepMotwary: Your future plans?
Helena Hörstedt:There's a lot of thing going on, for the moment I am
working on my first costume project, a ballet at the Opera in
Gothenburg, Sweden. Very exciting, the premier is in April. Do couples
of private orders and in the same time start working with my next
collection. There are no official plans made yet where or how it will
be shown.
I am heading for the next steep and as my main plan is to really move
forward I need to find a constructive plan how to manage to develop.
www.helenahorstedt.com
ALL PHOTOS BY PETER FARAGO
FASHION EDITOR INGELA KLEMETZ FARAGO
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