FILEP MOTWARY

EXCLUSIVE: FOCUSING ON NEIL BARRETT F/W 2012-13

Dear iDEALS,

Neil Barrett's specialties on ultra-precise tailoring, the mufti-detailed patterns and craft have made him a beloved designer to men from many years now. His collection for F/W 12\13 seems to be the ultimate wardrobe for every man respecting himself.

I am presenting a series of backstage photographs by Daniele Mari ©, property of Neil Barrett Studio, first posted online exclusively on Un nouVeau iDEAL. All material is under Neil Barrett copyrights.

For this collection Barrett cobines two traditional mens fabrics to create new engineered classics. Prince of Wales with micro-tweed, chevron with micro-houndstooth and the chalkstripe interrupted. Oversized volumes, couture workmanship, essentially masculine.

Worn with skinny jackets, knitwear and pants. Sportswear turned sartorial and chic through the usage of the engineered suiting fabrications.

Greys, burgundies, camels and black colours bring everyhting to balance.

Tuxedo combined with hoodies. Sweatshirts replace shirts with metallic or gunmetal embroidered fronts. Sportswear is made hyper chic through fabrication,colored blocked bags in contrast tones. Hybrid boots with armour inspired protection...

FILEP DOES PORTRAIT: THEODOULOS, THE ARTIST

Theodoulos Gregoriou by Filep Motwary ©

HOW TO BUILD A GARDEN, CURATED BY ELENA PARPA / PHOTOS BY FILEP MOTWARY

Dear iDEALS,

the Cyprus PHYTORIO HOUSE OF THE VISUAL ARTISTS ASSOSSIASION opens a wonderful exhibition this coming Saturday, February the 4th. Curated by ELENA PARPA, "How to build a garden" gathers nine local artists to present their work, based on "GARDEN" as a theme, the plants' circle of life, the change of seasons, the change of light within the day and how, us humans behave through these changes: theoretically, religiously and so on...

I was invited for a preview, as it is always interesting for me to watch how individual ideas become genetic and organic on a common ground.

The participating artists: Haris Epaminonda & Daniel Gustav Cramer, Phanos Kyriacou, Maria Loizidou, Panayiotis Michael, Polys Peslikas, Alexandros Pissourios, Efi Savvides and Socratis Socratous.

 

Curator Parpa was there as well as two of the participating artists, Polys Peslikas and Socratis Socratous.

This Saturday, February 4th at 12:00PM. 4 Nehrous street, Municipal Garden in Nicosia

V&A PRESENTS: BALLGOWNS / BRITISH GLAMOUR SINCE 1950

Victor Edelstein, 1986 (David Hughes)

Dear iDEALS,

From spring 2012 the V&A celebrates the opening of the newly renovated Fashion Galleries with an exhibition of beautiful ballgowns, red carpet evening dresses and catwalk showstoppers. Displayed over two floors, Ballgowns: British Glamour Since 1950 will feature more than sixty designs for social events such as private parties, royal balls, state occasions and opening nights. The exhibition will cover over sixty years of a strong British design tradition that continues to flourish.

Eveningwear from the V&A’s vast collection, by designers including Victor Stiebel, Zandra Rhodes, Jonathan Saunders and Hussein Chalayan, will be on show alongside dresses fresh from the catwalk shows of Alexander McQueen, Giles Deacon, Erdem and Jenny Packham. A selection of royal ballgowns will be on display, including a Norman Hartnell gown designed for Elizabeth the Queen Mother, Princess Diana’s ‘Elvis Dress’ designed by Catherine Walker and gowns worn by today’s young royals.

Ballgowns: British Glamour Since 1950 will also include dresses worn by actresses and celebrities including Elizabeth Hurley, Bianca Jagger and Sandra Bullock, and a stunning metallic leather dress created especially for the exhibition by innovative designer Gareth Pugh.

From 19 May 2012 to 6 January 2013

INTRODUCING FRANK TROPIANO

Dear iDEALS, a few days ago, I received a very nicely written letter along with a number of photographs featuring the works of New York based designer FRANK TROPIANO.

As I always have a tooth for the goodies, I feel that Tropiano's work is truly tasty for my appetite.

"Born and raised in Cleveland of Ohio Tropiano, studied Finance and Political Science at Miami University in Oxford and later  moved to New York City to further his education at the prestigious Parsons School of Design.

Soon after, Frank began designing costumes for various Off- Broadway plays and worked for various ‘mass-market’ companies where he produced ‘knock-off’ pieces/collections for some of the United States largest retailers. For now he is evolving his own idea of fashion."

For Fall 2012, his proposes a stark contrast of black and white rendered in crisp tailored pieces juxtaposed with softly draped accents. The materials are 100% Virgin Wool, leather, and silk georgette clip dots in varying sizes mixed together forming a very textural effect in the garments. The shape, with a few exceptions, hover around the body in the form of shift dresses, cutaway blazers and trapeze blouses. There are some fitted cocktail dresses with leather trim and fringed shirts. The pieces work together and separately as sportswear but can also be paired for an ensemble effect.

Photo Credits: Edward McShane Hair & Make-up: Wenya Chang Model: Melissa Chu

BRANKO POPOVIC REPORTS: JIVIKA BIERVLIET

Dear Filep and iDEALS,

Jivika Biervliet debuted at Amsterdam Fashion Week with her playful and conceptual menswear collection ‘Forever Young’. I met Jivika last summer when she took part at FASHIONCLASH Maastricht 2011 and it's really great to see her at the AFW stage.

Text and images 

by

Branko Popovic

The Netherlands

STEVEN BRINKE & MICHEL GAUBERT / PHOTO BY ANNA BAUER

080 BARCELONA FASHION WEEK : MANUEL BOLANO

Dear iDEALS, last season's winner designer for the 080 Barcelona Fashion Week award, is probably my favorite Catalonian creator.

Manuel Bolano's heroine for the winter of 2012\12 reveals a powerful woman on the outside who claims to be fragile on the inside. Gorgeous girls and boys carrying bruised faces walked up and down in sheer chiffons, velvets, cashmere, studded heels and feathers. I loved it!

Photographic prints, layers of raffia, fine tailoring, and striped dresses - or in other cases jackets - came as the proof for Bolano's comprehension of graphic and proportion.

Filep Motwary©

BRANKO POPOVIC REPORTS: MARIJE DE HAAN STEALS THE SHOW AT AMSTERDAM FASHION WEEK

Dear Filep and iDEALS,

Marije de Haan stole the show Thursday night at AFW, with her men's collection, based on her fascination for the underworld of the society, criminals, old police photos and muggers..

Scheduled for the second time on the official program of Amsterdam Fashion Week, this time De Haan's fascination is linked to specific man, Black Bart.

Covered faces on a number of models are covered, along with  tree impressive older and bearded men walked her catwalk. Among them Mr. Ferry Van Der Nat.

Although in a figurative language, De Haan continued  to surprise again and wow the crowd with a very powerful collection.

Marije de Haan is here to stay!

Text and images 

by

Branko Popovic

The Netherlands

BRANKO POPOVIC REPORTS: WEARABLE SCULPTURES BY WINDE RIENSTRA

Dear Filep and iDEALS,

Winde Rienstra's show was one of the most beautiful at this season edition of the Amsterdam Fashion Week.

This was her the second time showing a collection as part of the fashion week and it was definitely a show to look-forward to as  her last year's really made an impression.

The collection was inspired by a painting from Dutch artist J.C. Van Schagen,  a serene combination between architectural shapes and soft light fabrics.

As a finalist from the first edition of The Green Fashion Competition, Winde finds importance to work using eco-friendly materials. For this one, she used wood, cardboard and silk.

Have a look at the cardboard shoes!

Text and images  the Netherlands

by

Branko Popovic

The Netherlands

PAROSH

Photo by Filep Motwary©

WIND IN THE WILLOWS WITH JOANNA LOUCA / PHOTOS BY FILEP MOTWARY

VISIONAIRS GALLERY PARIS PRESENTS OLIVIER RIEU & CYRIL DEYDIER (ORCD)

EXCLUSIVE: HONEST BY. BRUNO PIETERS

        

HONEST BY IS A PIONEERING CLOTHING BRAND AND RETAILER LAUNCHED IN JANUARY 2012. THE LINE IS UNIQUE IN BEING ENTIRELY OPEN ABOUT ITS SUPPLY CHAIN AND PRICING.

Dear iDEALS, Bruno Pieters conceived Honest by during a sabbatical from the fashion industry in Southern India. An award-winning designer and art director, Pieters spent 2010 exploring the developing world, an experience that profoundly affected his personal philosophy and his thinking about fashion. Observing how native people wore clothes that were grown, woven and sewn from sources they could identify around them, he wondered if such transparency could be operated on an international scale when making designer products. On his return to Antwerp Pieters began to work on a radical new concept. Honest by is the first company in the world to offer consumers a full cost breakdown of its products. At every stage, from yarn and buttons through to fabric and manufacturing, consumers are shown exactly what their money is buying, revealing even the mark up.

The brand also offers full disclosure of the production process informing about all materials and design, answering two questions: where it was made and by whom. The brand's team undertook a year-long research into the sources of raw materials, tracing back the origins of fabrics and trimmings to be certain that every element in each garment is as environmentally friendly as possible, that wellbeing of consumer’s skin is taken into consideration and that working conditions are safe. Organic certification, too, was researched rigorously. Supporting animal welfare, the brand chooses not to use leather, fur, shell or horn.

The only animal products are wool and silk. The wool is either certified organic, recycled or sourced from selected farms in countries like the UK, where laws on farming ensure the welfare of animals. The raw materials of the silk fabrics are certified organic. There is a vegan option available, entirely free of animal products, for almost every design.

honestby.com

*Music by Senjan
*Film by Théo Gennitsakis
*a Pressure production ( pressure.fr )

"EVERYBODY'S TALKING 'BOUT GIVENCHY COUTURE THESE DAYS"

All photos property of GIVENCHY by RICCARDO TISCI ©